RAPID MAKE-UP STRATEGY FOR YOUR FACE
Having established general ideas about your face use this fast makeup tutorial.
How to do makeup step by step at home
- Check face for hairs, pluck, and dot with astringent. Remember to fix hair away from skin areas you will work on. Eyebrows can be plucked for line, usually from the under-side. Define with pencil and/or brushed-on powder. Take care with tone, not too dark, except perhaps for evening wear; better to emphasize definition.
- Apply foundation over face; start with application at nose, forehead, cheeks, and chin. Remember neck, and go past eventual hair line. Choice of colour: if must use a tint, choose one near your own skin tone, but if there are extensive blemishes, for example visible broken veins, use foundation as dark as necessary. For dark skins, translucent foundations are best. Apply very thinly, blend into neck with small-pored sponge, blend beyond hair line. Take special care in blending on neck. Better to apply two thin coats than one thick one. Blending at this stage is absolutely crucial, so do not be afraid to remove foundation if too thick.
- Now look at your face, light shining as near straight-on as possible (this is where the mirror with bulbs around it is so useful). Shadows, or areas that appear deep, for example under eyes, can be improved at this stage by fingering on light cover-up, or white pencil.
- Now, what to emphasise? What to reduce? Dark tints on jaw line, and on nose, soften heavy bones. Blend carefully, and use very sparingly: a hint will do all that is necessary, too much will have the reverse effect.
- Apply blusher to cheeks, stroke outwards from mouth line to ear. Ensure blending, watch for sharp lides.
- Powder, with sponge or brush, small area at a time, with different on-off touches. Use translucent or neutral powder. Apply minutely, build up, flick off excess with brush – this lightens appearance.
How to do eye/eyebrow makeup for beginners
- Eyes. Basic make-up – workaday is: shadow on lid, very light liner, mascara. Elaborate make-up for evening is: choice of tint for shadow, line in eye crease, highlight under brows, eye-liner, full lashes. The transition from basic to elaborate has many stages, but in all cases blend shadows. Within this framework here’s how to emphasise your good points. Reduce effect of prominent eyes by dark eye shadow, light tone on underbrow. Bring out deep-set eyes by pale shadow over lid, darker on eyebrow bone. De-emphasise heavy lids by mascara-ing top lashes more than lower. Widen close-set eyes by widening gap between eyebrows by plucking, light cover up bridge of nose and inner eye corner, dark shadow from centre of lid out, use crease line and eye-liner from centre out too, add lashes at outer corners.
- To widen close-set eyes pale shadow on inner part of lid and darken outer part of lid.
- Round eyes: a colour shadow diagonal from inner corner to brow. Lengthen eye with liner.
- Drooping eyes: wing shadow up and out. Line: thin, tilt upward near outer end of eye.
- Deep-set eyes: pale white high lighter on lids. Line: thin and light.
- Prominent eyes: neutral shadow on the lid socket defined by brown line.
- Small eyes: highlighter from inner corner to brow. Line: soft and under eye.
To bring eyes closer: dark shades near nose, lighten away from nose, brow, lid; eyeliner starts close to nose, gradually thin away from nose. Lift droopy eyes with upward false eye-crease line, pale shadow at outer upper eyelid; widen, lengthen eyebrow. Enlarge eyes by highlighting light tone under eyebrow, long false lashes. Sequence: apply shade to whole lid; reduce in areas according to pattern decided. Set with powder or cream. Contour eye crease. Keep sharper line for evening, smudge for day with cotton-wool bud. Add eye-liner following pattern decided. Apply mascara a little at a time, Patience means smooth application; eventually the tiny amounts build up to the ample amount you should add. Define eyebrows. A common mistake is to work merely on one aspect, say eyes too far apart, and forget you may have really beautiful eye shape; consequently, you should be prepared to use more than one of the above emphasis and de-emphasis techniques.
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- Add blusher to cheeks, using stick, gel, or brush. Use upward strokes, take care with edges, and blend.
- Lips. Establish the line you want with a pencil or brush – using lipstick like paint and then fill in with lipstick. To reduce lips; outline in shade lighter than you fill in. To reduce upper or lower lip, use darker shade than other lip. To make lips fuller outline just outside natural line, stop a little from the corners, fill in with lighter shade, or with darker shade combined with a high tone with gloss on the centre margin of the lips. Usual outline with a darker or lighter tone than for the whole lips. Blot with tissue, apply again. finish off with gloss or jelly for moist effect.
- Shape your lips using a lip or eye-brow pencil. Basic colours are brown or pink, but others may be better for you. Fill in with lipstick.
- The mouth can be made smaller by drawing a line inside your natural line. Fill in with lipstick.
- For mouth contouring, use foundation over lips to begin with, then draw lines for effect desired. Finally fill in with lipstick as necessary.
- For unevenly shaped lips, draw lines evenly and then fill in.
- If top lip protrudes over lower, emphasise bottom lip by widening, then fill in with lighter lipstick than top. Experiment with different coloured pencils, different upper and lower tones of lipstick.